If the way that food tastes, feels, and smells is of consequence to you; if the quality of your lunch-time sandwich is as important as the elegance of a weekend romantic dinner; if you enjoy dining out, throwing dinner parties, or organizing business or group events; you ought to become acquainted with the chef at The Club Dining Gallery, Craig Steinmetz.

     It was the refined, upscale appearance of Chef Steinmetz's restaurant that drew me in through his front door, and what I discovered inside both surprised and intrigued me. Steinmetz has a passion for his establishment being more than a "one trick pony" place to eat. Those who know where to get a great lunch in downtown Ogden have long relied upon The Club for excellent deli sandwiches, super soups, and top-notch salads. Yet, now that the eatery has moved a few doors east--still in the 100 block of 25th street, Chef Steinmetz has the facilities to put his formal training and years of experience on display while still being one of the best $5-$6 lunch choices downtown.
     Craig gets excited when explaining to me his capacity for serving group events or custom and small party meals. He can accommodate small or large groups in The Club's Private Dining Gallery, cater for all occasions whether business or personal, and provide a perfect solution for a highbrow yet low-stress dinner at home: fresh gourmet meals to go. He touts with pride his heat-and-serve menu; one has only to light the candles, microwave the entrée, and enjoy.
     In addition to deli lunch, group events, catering, and food to go, The Club offers fine dinning Friday and Saturday nights. After hearing about Steinmetz's "Call me; I can do almost anything you want," approach, I thought I'd put this "Jack-of-alltrades" to the test and see if the "master of none" part of the cliché applied to him as well.
     I definitely appreciate an appetizer that sets the tone for an evening of epicurean dinning and, in this case, intimate conversation with close friends. Tonight, after the bustle of getting here, I take a deep breath, clear my cluttered mind, and pick up the menu. Oooh, appetizers! Cheese Fondue, Roasted Hummus, Smoked Shrimp, and French Onion Crostinis all temp me, sirens singing to my adventurous palate. Between the four of us, we decide on the Hummus and the Shrimp.
     The shrimp is billed as "Smoked Shrimp In Roasted Red Pepper Gorgonzola Cream Sauce and is served over Puff Pastry Squares." With the cream sauce and the croissant-like pastry squares, this is smoky shrimp with a difference. My mood transcended life's myriad demands with every bite. My rising spirits called for wine, and we ordered up one of my favorite reds, an import from Tuscany's ancient vineyards, Straccali Chianti. The savory shrimp quickly disappeared and an ample bowl of hummus appeared. The menu touts "Roasted Garlic Hummus Dip served with Asiago Crositinis and Roasted Red Peppers." The textures of grainy hummus and the crunchy bread crostinis contrasted beautifully with those of the recumbent shrimp on their poufy pastry divans. The warm roasted garlic and red pepper flavors were my "First star on the right" as I traveled "straight on till morning," looking for my "Neverland" of contentment. Not only was the hummus a seamless segue to our entrees: "Garlic Herb Chicken ($14)," "Medallions of Beef Sautéed with Mushrooms ($18)" and "Black Peppercorn Crusted Ribeye Steak ($22)," but the serving was also large enough to accompany our meals--a savory pate'--to the end.
     A very nice mixed green salad preceded my steak. I liked its poppy seed dressing with sliced almonds sprinkled on top, and I think that it was while enjoying my salad that I was aware of a sense of appreciation for the ambiance or atmosphere of the Dining Gallery. The large windows and white painted woodwork contrasting with dark furnishings and linens lent a pathos, a significant sense of feeling to an excellent meal shared with even more excellent friends.
     My steak arrived adorned with a flavorful "Brandied Green Peppercorn Cream Sauce" and I was in love. The cream sauce softened the edgy taste of the peppercorns, creating a subtle alliance of spice and sauce.
     A lovely, yellow rice creation that Chef Steinmetz calls Asiago Risotto accompanied my steak. The Risotto, an Italian rice dish prepared with herb, asiago, and white wine, was a pleasantly mild, yet distinctly flavored counterpoint to the savory tastes that set the tone for my meal. An excellent preparation of fresh vegetables completed my entrée. Steinmetz calls it "Ratatouille." Each component--yellow squash, zucchini, peppers, onion, tomato, and eggplant--is sautéed separately as cooking times vary greatly, combined with herbs and olive oil, and served steaming hot, complimenting the rice and steak wonderfully.
     One might expect that with so much attention paid to fine dinning, catering, and great lunches, Steinmetz would purchase desserts from suppliers, as do many restaurants. However, some of the Dining Gallery's finest work is displayed in Steinmetz's desserts. Crème Brulee with fresh berries, Chocolate Truffle Tart, and Chocolate Fondue offer a fantasy finish to everyone's meal. Having sampled all three, my favorite is "Chocolate Truffle Tart." Very like a cheesecake, yet lighter, more cakelike, the tart is beautifully presented. It is served with a vanilla sauce and fresh berries. Very nice!
     I really enjoy going out for a meal. In fact, it has probably been my favorite form of entertainment for a number of years. Yet, before I started writing restaurant reviews, I didn't pay much attention to what it was that gave me that "Gee, I really love that place," feeling. But, with every review that I write, I'm learning more about what it is that I enjoy when dining out. For me, the food is about one-third of what I enjoy about a great dining experience. Of primary importance is the company with whom I share my meal, followed by the ambiance or atmosphere of the restaurant, and finally, though still of paramount importance, the meal itself.

CLUB RESTAURANT 172 Historic 25th St, Ogden, Utah (801) 395-0166 Open for lunch everyday but Sunday, dinners open on Friday and Saturday evenings.